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The Carretera Austral (Chile’s Route 7) is often hailed as the most beautiful road in the world – a 1,240-kilometer journey through the wild heart of Patagonia. Winding from Puerto Montt in the Lakes Region down to the remote village of Villa O’Higgins, this legendary route traverses a stunning array of landscapes: dense temperate rainforests, turquoise rivers, glacier-clad peaks, fjords, and golden pampas. Travelers frequently describe the experience as “a trip inside a postcard,” with one reviewer calling Carretera Austral “the most beautiful [road] one” they have ever driven.
This is not a typical highway, but rather an epic road trip into one of South America’s last frontiers. Much of the Carretera Austral is unpaved gravel, originally carved through the wilderness in the 1980s, which only adds to its adventurous charm. The isolation of the region – the Aysén area has fewer than one person per square kilometer on average – means its landscapes remain pristine and uncrowded. Two to three weeks is an ideal trip length for this route, giving you time to savor the sights and indulge in Patagonia’s serene beauty. In this guide, we’ll outline why the Carretera Austral is so spectacular, and how to plan an unforgettable Patagonia road trip that balances adventure with comfort.
Unparalleled Scenery: The Carretera Austral offers an ever-changing panorama of Patagonia’s finest scenery. In the north, you’ll drive beneath snowcapped volcanoes and through lush fjordland rainforests dripping with moss. Further south, the terrain opens up to shimmering lakes (like the immense General Carrera Lake) and jagged mountain spires that punctuate the skyline. Vast icefields spawn glaciers that creep into valleys, while roaring rivers cut through steep gorges. This diverse geography – from coastal fjords to the Andes and towards the Argentine steppe – all in one journey is what makes the road so unique. Every few hours the landscape transforms, as you move through multiple climates and ecosystems. For example, the western stretches are rainy and verdant, yet the eastern side of General Carrera Lake lies in a dry rain-shadow, enjoying up to 300 sunny days per year (one of the driest microclimates in Patagonia). It’s a feast for the eyes, where “rugged mountains… dense forests with unique tree species… and high peaks” appear around each bend.
Pristine Wilderness: Patagonia’s Aysén region, which the Carretera Austral cuts through, remains remarkably untouched and sparsely populated. It’s one of Chile’s least inhabited regions, which has helped preserve its ultra-pristine landscapes. There are stretches where you might not see any man-made structure for miles – just virgin forests, mirror-like lakes, and wild fauna. The road passes through multiple national parks and nature reserves, part of the ambitious “Route of Parks” system of protected areas. As a result, wildlife thrives here: you may spot Andean condors soaring overhead or huemul deer darting into the woods. In the southern section, herds of guanacos (wild camelids) graze the plains, and if you’re lucky, you might even glimpse a stealthy puma. The feeling of isolation and serenity is profound; you’re truly off the beaten path. As one travel writer put it, “Aysén is probably the most beautiful part of the earth… The Carretera Austral has become one of South America’s most remote – and therefore enchanting – road trips.” Driving here is a step back in time to when roads were empty and nature ruled – a huge part of the Carretera’s magic.
Diversity of Experiences: In addition to scenery, the Carretera Austral packs in diverse experiences. Outdoor enthusiasts will find world-class hiking, rafting, kayaking, and fly fishing along the way. You can hike through ancient alerce forests in Pumalín Park one day, trek to a glacier viewpoint the next, and kayak on a turquoise lake the day after. Highlights like the Marble Caves (Cuevas de Mármol) allow you to witness nature’s artistry up close, while remote estancia ranches give a glimpse into Patagonia’s gaucho culture. Every day brings a new adventure, whether it’s walking on a glacier, soaking in hot springs, or simply enjoying the silence of a mirror-still fjord at sunrise. Despite the remoteness, the route is dotted with small villages where you can refuel and meet friendly locals, offering a taste of Patagonian hospitality and home-cooked regional cuisine (like hearty guanaco stew or freshly caught trout). All these factors combine to explain why many consider the Carretera Austral not just Chile’s most scenic drive, but indeed one of the most spectacular road trips on the planet.
When to Go: The best time to travel the Carretera Austral is during the Patagonian summer and shoulder seasons, roughly November through March. This period offers longer days and (relatively) milder weather. January–February are peak season, when you’ll find the most visitors (still far fewer than in Torres del Paine or other popular spots) and higher prices. Early summer (Nov-Dec) and early autumn (March) can be ideal for fewer crowds while still having decent weather – though Patagonia’s climate is unpredictable year-round. Rain is common in the north (Queulat and Pumalín get heavy rainfall), whereas southern areas like Chacabuco Valley are drier. Whenever you go, be prepared for rapidly changing conditions: warm sunshine, sudden downpours, and strong winds can all happen in a single day. Dress in layers and have rain gear handy even if the forecast looks clear.
Getting There and Around: Most travelers begin their journey at either end of the Carretera. You can start in the north (Puerto Montt or Chaitén) and head south, or begin in the Aysén region by flying into Balmaceda Airport (Coyhaique), which is roughly the midpoint of the route. High-end travelers often choose to rent a 4x4 vehicle or arrange a private guided tour for comfort and flexibility. Having your own car (or driver) is by far the best way to experience the Carretera Austral. Public buses exist but are infrequent, and many trailheads or lodges are far from any town, making self-drive almost essential. If driving, note that the highway includes ferry crossings in the northern section (e.g. the ferry from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo for Pumalín Park) which require advance planning and booking in peak season. Road conditions vary from new pavement to winding gravel stretches with potholes – you won’t be able to rush here, and that’s the point. Plan for an average of 50 km/h on gravel segments; what looks like a short distance on a map can take several hours of careful driving. However, the scenery will encourage you to slow down and soak it in.
Trip Length: To truly do justice to the Carretera Austral, plan at least 14 days, and optimally 3 weeks. Two weeks is the minimum to cover the main highlights without feeling too rushed. With three weeks, you can explore deeper or add side trips. Many travelers split the road into segments, spending 2–3 nights in each key area. For example, you might spend a couple nights around Pumalín/Chaitén, a few nights in the Queulat/Puyuhuapi area, 2–3 nights near Coyhaique/Cerro Castillo, a few nights at General Carrera Lake (Puerto Río Tranquilo), and another few down in the Cochrane/Patagonia Park region. This pace allows time for activities like day hikes, boat tours, and simply relaxing at your lodge with a glass of Chilean wine and a panoramic view. If you’re short on time, you could focus on the Aysén portion (flying into Balmaceda and out the same, doing a loop) – but if you can, drive the entire route. Reaching the road’s terminus at Villa O’Higgins (and perhaps taking the boat to Glacier O’Higgins or even crossing on foot into Argentina’s El Chaltén) is a rewarding feat for those who can spare the time.
Accommodation and Comfort: While the Carretera Austral has a reputation as a backpacker’s paradise, it is equally rewarding for luxury and comfort-focused travelers. Along the route, you’ll find a selection of charming lodges, upscale inns, and private villas where you can rest in style each night. In recent years, family-run eco-lodges have popped up in these remote reaches, offering surprising comfort – think gourmet Patagonian cuisine, hot tubs or fireplaces, and cozy cabins with lake views – all in the middle of nowhere. For example, on the shores of General Carrera Lake, there’s an ecolodge in a microclimate so sunny that it boasts 300 days of sunshine a year (the lowest rainfall in Chilean Patagonia), allowing guests to enjoy lake views and gardens while much of western Patagonia is drenched in rain. Many high-end accommodations in the region are nestled on private reserves or estancias, providing exclusivity and tranquility. Since such options are limited in number, advance booking is highly recommended, especially in summer.
If you prefer privacy or traveling with a group, consider renting private vacation homes or cabins at key locations – some local agencies (like specialized journey planners) manage beautiful houses in the Coyhaique, General Carrera, or Baker River areas. These offer a “home away from home” experience with full amenities, often set in splendid isolation with only nature around. Whether you choose a luxurious lakeside lodge or a rustic-chic cabin on a ranch, ending each day in comfort with a hearty meal and a warm bed makes the adventure far more enjoyable. You can venture out for hikes and excursions by day, then return to a hot shower, fine Chilean wine, and perhaps a crackling wood stove at night. This blend of wilderness by day and comfort by night is what we specialize in – letting you experience Patagonia’s raw beauty without sacrificing relaxation.
Lastly, pack smart: fuel stations are sparse (always top up your tank when you can), and ATMs are only in larger towns like Coyhaique, so carry some cash. Cell signal is intermittent, but digital detox is part of the charm. With a bit of preparation, you’ll be ready to embark on one of the greatest road trips of your life.
The Carretera Austral’s allure lies in the string of jaw-dropping destinations and natural wonders along its course. Here are the highlights you won’t want to miss, roughly north to south:
Queulat National Park is a gem of Chilean Patagonia’s fjord country, famed for the Ventisquero Colgante, or Hanging Glacier, tumbling over a sheer cliff. A dramatic torrent of ice and water pours from the glacier edge into a verdant valley, creating one of the most photogenic scenes on the Carretera. This hanging glacier waterfall is truly “iconic” and cannot be missed on any Carretera Austral itinerary. To see it up close, you can hike a well-maintained trail through dense evergreen forest (about 3.3 km each way) to a viewpoint facing the glacier. The sight of the electric-blue glacier perched high above, with its meltwater crashing hundreds of meters down in a thunderous waterfall, is absolutely worth the effort. On sunnier days, you might catch rainbows in the mist clouds below the falls.
Queulat also showcases the temperate rainforest ecosystem of northern Aysén. The park receives heavy rainfall, feeding luxuriant growth of ferns, lichens and enormous Nalca leaves (Chilean rhubarb) along the trails. The air is damp, mossy and rich with the smell of wood and earth. As you drive through this area, you’ll notice every surface – even road signs – covered in green. Take time to stop at the Mirador Queulat overlook on the road, or visit the quaint village of Puyuhuapi (founded by German immigrants) which offers rustic hot springs by the fjord. If you’re up for adventure, sea kayaking in the fjord or in the park’s Queulat Sound is a unique way to experience the meeting of glacier and ocean. Keep an eye out for wildlife: you may spot Magellanic woodpeckers in the forest or marine birds along the water. Queulat’s combination of thundering glacier, primeval forest, and fjord scenery perfectly encapsulates the drama of the Carretera Austral.
Cerro Castillo National Park (near the town of Villa Cerro Castillo) is often called the “Torres del Paine of Aysén” – and it’s easy to see why. Jagged black spires of Cerro Castillo mountain tower over the landscape like a fairytale castle, dusted in snow and flanked by walls of vertical rock. At their base lies a milky turquoise lagoon that, on a clear day, reflects the pinnacles above. Many travelers count hiking in Cerro Castillo among their top Carretera Austral experiences: “The snow-capped mountains with super blue lakes are just incredible… the views over the landscape below are amazing”. A popular day hike (about 5–6 hours round-trip) leads to Laguna Cerro Castillo, the glacial lake at the foot of the peaks, offering a panoramic lunch spot facing the spires. It’s a challenging trek – steep in parts, gaining ~1000m of elevation – but hikers consistently rave that it’s worth every drop of sweat for the unbelievable vistas.
Even if you’re not up for the big hike, the scenery from the road through this area is gorgeous. Rolling hills give way to the sharp tooth-like mountains, and you’ll find excellent photo ops from various miradores (viewpoints) along the highway. In autumn (April), the lenga beech forests here turn fiery shades of red and orange, making it an especially photogenic time to visit. The village of Villa Cerro Castillo itself is small but welcoming – stop by for a legit Patagonian empanada or visit the local artisan shops (the area is known for its wool and leather handicrafts). There are also horseback excursions available for those who want to experience the Andes like a baqueano (cowboy). Notably, Cerro Castillo was declared a national park in 2018, increasing protections for its ecosystems which include endangered huemul deer. As you walk its trails, you might see condors circling overhead or even fresh puma tracks in the mud. This park, just 1 hour south of Coyhaique, is a must-see highlight combining adventure and jaw-dropping alpine beauty.
Lago General Carrera (also known as Lake Buenos Aires on the Argentine side) is an expansive turquoise lake that straddles the Chile-Argentina border – and it’s the largest lake in Chile. Rounding a bend to suddenly see the vast expanse of General Carrera is a moment that makes every traveler gasp: “after a sharp turn, a deeper-than-deep turquoise lake looms… minerals give the water its bizarre blue color”. Indeed, the lake’s remarkably vivid blue hue comes from rock flour (finely ground glacial sediment) and mineral deposits like limestone and quartz in the water. The effect is a milky, tropical-looking turquoise that seems otherworldly against the backdrop of rugged mountains. The lake can be moody – glassy and mirror-like on a calm morning, but whipped into white-capped waves when the wind picks up (its native Tehuelche name Chelenko means “Stormy Waters”).
On the lake’s Chilean shoreline sits the tiny town of Puerto Río Tranquilo, which has gained fame as the launching point for visiting the Marble Caves. These caves, known locally as Capillas de Mármol or Marble Cathedral, are a stunning natural wonder tucked along the lake’s edge. Over 6,000 years of waves have carved swirling grottoes into solid marble cliffs, creating caves with smooth, polished walls streaked in blue, grey and white. The patterns look almost man-made, as if sculpted by an artist, but it’s pure nature – water and time working together. To visit, you take a 30-minute boat tour (or guided kayak trip) from Puerto Río Tranquilo, skimming across the turquoise water to the cave area. As you glide through the cathedral-like arches by boat, the sunlight reflecting off the lake water dances on the marble ceilings, creating a magical blue glow. It’s an ethereal experience, and many say kayaking under these smoothly carved marble formations is reason enough to travel to Aysén. The Marble Caves are accessible only by boat and usually visited between spring and early autumn when waters are navigable. Tip: Try to go in the early morning on a sunny day for the best light inside the caves (and to avoid strong afternoon winds).
Beyond the caves, the General Carrera region offers other activities. From Puerto Río Tranquilo, you can also join a tour to Glaciar Exploradores, where you hike on the ice of a glacier coming down from the Northern Patagonian Ice Field – another unforgettable adventure. Fishing enthusiasts will find the lake and its tributaries rich with trout and salmon. And if you have extra time, a side trip to the village of Chile Chico on the south shore of the lake provides a completely different microclimate (almost desert-like, with vineyards and orchards!). But for most, the Marble Caves and the brilliant lake are the star attractions – a combination of geology and scenery that embodies the surreal beauty of the Carretera Austral.
The Baker River is the most voluminous river in Chile, and undoubtedly one of its most beautiful. As it flows out of Lake General Carrera near Puerto Bertrand, the Río Baker shines a surreal shade of electric turquoise-blue, colored by the glacial sediments in its water. The river’s power is evident in its strong currents and occasional rapids, yet in calmer sections you can see right to the bottom through its crystal-clear water. The Baker winds southward, parallel to the Carretera Austral, treating drivers to constant vistas of rushing blue water cutting through green valleys. There are several pull-offs and short trails to view the river’s highlights, including the famous Confluencia – the confluence point where the vivid blue Baker meets the milky gray Neff River in a dramatic swirl of colors. It’s a must-stop spot marked by a short path to an overlook (and as a bonus, there’s a little family-run coffee stall often set up near the parking lot – a nice place to chat with locals).
Adventurers will be tempted by the Baker’s offerings: white-water rafting on the Baker is legendary (particularly near Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane) for its mix of exhilarating rapids and gorgeous scenery. Experienced guides lead rafting trips that can be intense but accessible even to newcomers – an unforgettable way to immerse yourself (literally) in the Baker’s turquoise waves. If rafting isn’t your thing, the Baker is also renowned for fly fishing; its waters teem with large rainbow and brown trout. Several fishing lodges and outfitters in the area cater to anglers seeking a world-class catch-and-release experience. Or, simply find a quiet bend to have a picnic and watch the water – condors often glide above the river corridor, and the sound of the rushing water is the ultimate nature soundtrack.
As you follow the river south, you’ll notice the landscape transitioning from wet temperate forest to a drier, sagebrush steppe environment near Cochrane and the Chacabuco Valley. The Baker River eventually empties into the Pacific near the unique town of Caleta Tortel – a village with no roads, only wooden boardwalks perched above the tides (worth a detour if you have time). It’s remarkable to think this wild river was once slated for mega-dam projects; thankfully, those were halted, and the Baker now remains free-flowing and protected, forming the blue artery through some of Patagonia’s most pristine ecosystems.
No journey down the Carretera Austral would be complete without visiting Patagonia National Park, one of Chile’s newest and most spectacular national parks. This park, created from a former private conservancy by philanthropist Douglas Tompkins (founder of North Face), is a 504,000+ acre expanse of valleys, mountains, and grasslands now teeming with wildlife. Centered on the Chacabuco Valley (just north of Cochrane), Patagonia Park protects a transition zone where the lush forests of western Patagonia give way to the arid Patagonian stepper. The result is an exceptionally biodiverse area: “the park is home to one of the highest levels of biodiversity in Aysén; all the region’s native species – from Andean condors to guanacos and pumas – can be found here”. Indeed, as you drive through, you are almost guaranteed to see herds of guanacos (wild relatives of llamas) grazing the scrubby plains, and you might spot rheas (ñandú), foxes, flamingos in wetlands, and the endangered huemul deer (Chile’s iconic dwarf deer). Birdlife is abundant – keep binoculars handy for Andean condors riding thermals or perhaps the striking black-chested buzzard eagle.
Patagonia Park offers excellent hiking and wildlife viewing. There are well-marked trails ranging from short nature walks to full-day treks up mountain ridges. A favorite is the Lagunas Altas loop, which climbs into the hills for sweeping views of emerald lakes and the valley below (where you’ll likely see guanacos dotting the distance). Another popular stop is the Park Museum and Visitor Center at the old Estancia Valle Chacabuco headquarters – here you can learn about the history of the valley (once a sheep and cattle ranch, now restored to wilderness), and see the vision Tompkins had for rewilding this land. There’s a lovely café and lodge (in case you fancy lunch or even an overnight at the elegant Explora Lodge Patagonia located in the park).
Driving the road through Patagonia National Park is a highlight in itself. In fact, one 74-kilometer stretch of the Carretera Austral that cuts through the park has been called “perhaps the most beautiful road in the world”. As you cruise along, you’ll witness a landscape of golden grasslands framed by snow-streaked peaks, bizarre rock formations (some ridges here look like melted ice cream in shape), and wildlife at every turn. It truly feels like a Serengeti of the South, with animals roaming free against a dramatic backdrop. If you have time, spend a couple of days in the park – take a safari drive at dusk to see wildlife, do a hike in the morning, and enjoy a picnic by the sparkling waters of Lake Cochrane or the Baker River. The park is a triumph of conservation, transforming what was once overgrazed ranchland back into a wild Eden for future generations.
If you’ve made it this far south, why not go all the way to the end? The Carretera Austral culminates at the tiny outpost of Villa O’Higgins, reachable by continuing south of Patagonia Park and taking two more small ferries across lakes. This last stretch is the most remote: you’ll pass the quirky boardwalk town of Caleta Tortel (worth a visit for its unique architecture on stilts) and wind through primordial forests where few travelers venture. Villa O’Higgins itself is a humble village dwarfed by towering peaks – it’s the end of the road, literally. From here, one highlight is a boat trip on Lago O’Higgins to visit the magnificent O’Higgins Glacier, a blue-hued giant spilling off the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Intrepid explorers can also embark on the famous trail to Argentina: a combination of boat and trekking that leads to El Chaltén, Argentina, through a mountain pass (a multi-day adventure for the truly adventurous). While Villa O’Higgins is far off the beaten path, reaching it gives a real sense of accomplishment – you’ve driven one of the world’s wildest roads from start to finish. Most travelers, however, will turn around near Cochrane or Tortel unless they have ample time. Whether or not you make it to the very end, the journey itself and the destinations above are more than enough to make your road trip extraordinary.
Traveling the Carretera Austral is not just a road trip, it’s a life experience. Few places on Earth offer such a combination of raw natural beauty, variety of landscapes, and feeling of discovery around every corner. In a couple of weeks, you’ll see crystal glaciers hanging off mountains, boat through marble caves on a turquoise lake, hike to castle-like peaks, and watch the sunset over silent fjords. You’ll meet the resilient and warm people who call this faraway region home and perhaps understand the pioneer spirit it takes to live here. By night, you’ll relax in comfort – whether in a cozy lodge with a calafate sour cocktail by the fire, or soaking in a hot tub under millions of stars – reflecting on the wonders you witnessed that day.
It’s often said that the Carretera Austral changes you. The sheer grandeur of Patagonia’s landscapes and the sense of solitude can be a deeply moving experience for travelers from bustling cities. In the words of one visitor, driving this road is “a trip inside a postcard” – each day offering postcard-perfect scenes that etch themselves into your memory. As you traverse what many have dubbed the world’s most beautiful road, you’ll understand that this is more than a marketing slogan: it’s a sentiment earned through quiet lakes at dawn, condors soaring against mountain backdrops, and the turquoise glow of a rushing river at your feet.
If you seek adventure with a touch of luxury, Patagonia’s Carretera Austral awaits. It’s an ideal journey for high-end travelers who crave authentic nature experiences by day and comfortable, quality hospitality by night. From private casas on secluded estates to boutique eco-lodges with personalized service, you can explore this wild frontier without roughing it. So pack your sense of wonder (and a good camera), and get ready for the road trip of a lifetime. The Carretera Austral truly is Patagonia’s crown jewel – a road that must be experienced to be believed, and one that will leave you utterly enchanted by the Last Frontier of Chile. Safe travels and ¡buen viaje!
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